Some of Your Frequently Asked Skincare and Ingredient Questions Answered

Finding skincare products that work for your unique needs is not always an easy task. Often, just having a better understanding of what an ingredient is and what it is supposed to do can greatly help when making product choices.

Through our research coupled with questions of our own, we compiled a list of frequently asked questions that dermatologists, skincare companies, chemists, and other experts in the skincare industry tend to answer from its customers and patients. Plus, we included some basic questions to help you gain a better understanding of what certain terms mean in the skincare industry.

Here are 11 of those questions (in no particular order) that we will answer in this blog:

• What is the best time of day to clean my face?

• Are toners necessary?

• What's the difference between a retinoid and a retinol?

• How effective is natural - plant-based - products?

• What's the difference in sunscreens and why the concerns?

• What are essential oils and are they safe?

• Do topical products absorb into our skin?

• What's the difference between skin hydration and moisturization products?

• What order do I apply skincare products?

• Why the concerns about sulfates, phthalates, and parabens in skincare products?

• What's an emollient, humectant, and an occlusive?

You should always know what's in your skincare products.

Our answers were researched from reputable sources like Harvard Medical, The Mayo Clinic, The Cleveland Clinic, experts in dermatology and chemistry, and many other sources whose information was reviewed and approved by experts in the researched field.

What's the best time of day to clean my face? There is no perfect time, but it's often suggested that you clean your face before bed, after exercising, and anytime you have been in a dusty or dirty environment. If your skin is oily, some experts recommend cleansing your face twice daily - in the morning and before bed. (We're talking cleansing beyond just a wet facecloth applied to your skin.)

Are toners necessary? It depends on who you ask and your preference. Not all dermatologists recommend a toner or find it necessary. A toner's job is usually to gently refresh your skin without stripping it of its natural moisture, help restore pH to skin, soothe irritated skin, and hydrate skin. Some toners are also designed to remove remaining residue left behind after cleansing your skin. For extra hydration, a toner is useful, and a light organic rose hydrosol or something similar is good choice.

What's the difference between a retinoid and retinol? A retinoid is a derivative of Vitamin A that helps to combat fine lines, pigmentation issues, acne, and other skin issues. It helps accelerate skin cell division and new cell growth, help fight sun damage, reduce visible signs of aging, and more. Many retinoids must be prescribed by a physician and often have common side effects. A retinol is a subtype of a retinoid, so it may take more time and consistent use to be effective but less drying to the skin. Retinols tend to cause fewer side effects and can be purchased over the counter.

How effective is natural - plant-based - products? Natural products can be just as effective as their synthetic counterparts, if not more so, and often with less concern for the side effects caused by some synthetic chemicals. Natural ingredients can provide the skin with important vitamins and nutrients that promote healthier skin and help reduce inflammation. However, not all plant-based ingredients are for everyone and, for some, may cause an allergic reaction so always read the ingredients. (Note: If a person doesn't have a known allergy to the listed ingredients, most allergic reactions in plant-based products are caused by the scents - often an essential oil or other natural scent.)

What's the difference in sunscreens and why the concerns? A sunscreen may be a “mineral” (also referred to as "physical") sunscreen and usually made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. They are deemed safer because they sit on top of your skin and deflect UVA and UVB rays away from your body. Whereas "chemical" sunscreens act like sponges and absorb ultraviolet light. The biggest concern with some chemical sunscreens is the use of oxybenzone (and avobenzone) in which researchers believe may penetrate the skin and interfere with endocrine activity and hormones (especially alarming with children and women). (Hawaii bans sunscreen with oxybenzone because it has been shown to cause harm to its coral.)

What are essential oils and are they safe? Essential oils are concentrated plant extracts that are believed to have both healing and aromatherapy uses. Since they are highly concentrated, they can be dangerous when improperly used and should always be kept away from children and pets. They are safe in cosmetic products when used according to the maximum dermal limit and with a carrier oil (ex., Jojoba oil, coconut oil, etc.) Certain essential oils should not be used with children under a certain age (or pets), so always research before using these oils with or around children (and pets).

Do topical products absorb into our skin? Yes and no, depending on what is inside the product. Many skincare products don't make it to the middle skin layer (dermis). According to experts, the majority of ingredients begin to evaporate into thin air as soon as they are applied to skin. The ultimate goal is to penetrate the top layer of skin so that active ingredients can hydrate and fortify the skin. A cream often sits on the skin longer when it has an occlusive ingredient (ex., shea butter) to block water escaping the skin. Ingredients like Vitamins C and E can penetrate the skin. The good news: though many products may not penetrate the skin, they are beneficial because they help to hydrate the skin and seal moisture on the outer layer, rendering a hydrating effect that improves the outer texture.

What's the difference between skin hydration and moisturization products? Skincare products that attract water to the outermost layer of skin are hydration products. Products that lubricate the skin to prevent water from escaping are moisturization products. (Some products can do both.)

What order do I apply skincare products? Skincare products should be applied in the following order to get the most out of each product:

1. Cleansers first. Regardless of what you use to cleanse your face, always start here.

2. Exfoliate next. Since facial skin is sensitive, it is recommended that you exfoliate only two to three times per week. If you have sensitive skin, once weekly may be all that your skin can handle.

3. Apply toner, if you use one.

4. Apply serum. To get the maximum benefit of your serum, this should always be applied before your moisturizer.

5. Apply moisturizer - whether it's an oil, lotion, cream, or butter - after you have applied your serum to ensure you don't hinder the benefits of your serum.

6. Apply sunscreen. Some lotions have SPF properties, so you will have to decide if you need more based on the ingredients and what label claims.

Why the concerns about sulfates, phthalates, and parabens in skincare products? Let us first address what they are in basic terms: A sulfate is a cleansing agent found in cleansing products like shampoos and facial cleaners. Phthalates are used in fragranced products to help the scent last longer, but considered an "everywhere" chemical that is also found in toys, food containers, clothing, etc. A paraben is a chemical preservative for food items, skincare, and cosmetic products. It is believed that these synthetic chemicals (along with many others) are harmful, citing their use may cause cancer and be disruptive to your endocrine system. Even though governing agencies claim that small amounts used in most products are unlikely to cause harm, there is a lot of research contrary to these claims.

What's an emollient, humectant, and an occlusive? An emollient has the quality of softening or soothing the skin by filling in gaps between skin cells, making your skin more comfortable and less itchy (ex., oils). A humectant is a substance that attracts water to the skin (ex., hyaluronic acid) or reduce the loss of moisture from the skin. Occlusive helps form a protective barrier on the skin to prevent water loss and lock in hydration (ex. Shea butter).